In December 2011, a young male wolf named Slavc ventured out from his territory in Slovenia, embarking on a remarkable journey spanning several thousand miles across the Alps. Although the reasons behind his departure remain enigmatic, the details of his travels are documented thanks to a GPS collar he wore. This remarkable trek involved swimming across rivers and navigating highways as he crossed into Austria and later into Italy.

In Lessinia, located north of Verona, Slavc encountered a female wolf, Juliet, who was also on a journey, likely having strayed from a pack in the western Alps. Their meeting resulted in the first wolf pups borne in Italy’s eastern Alps in over a century, with now seventeen established packs found in the region. Across the European landscape, wolf populations are on the rise. France, which eliminated its wolf population in 1927, has rebounded to an estimated 800 wolves. Greece hosts around 1,000, while Italy’s wolf population has surged from a mere 100 in the 1960s, confined to Abruzzo, to approximately 3,300 today. The UK, Iceland, Cyprus, Malta, and Ireland remain the only European nations without a wolf presence.

Author Adam Weymouth retraces the journey of Slavc on foot. This endeavor, while reminiscent of classic adventure travel narratives, diverges into reflection and nuance. Weymouth, who received the Sunday Times Young Writer of the Year Award for his previous work detailing a 2,000-mile journey down the Yukon River in Canada, approaches this story with a focus on the intricate connection between humans and wolves.

Wolves have long been ingrained in folklore, from fairytales to nightmares. For Anglo-Saxons, January was cherished as the wulf-monath, when wolves would sometimes enter villages in dire need of food. This fear evolved into the werewolf hysteria of the 15th century, culminating in hundreds of executions in Europe over the next three centuries.

Weymouth’s journey leads him through contemporary Austria, where he discovers similar tensions concerning wolves amidst various social and economic crises. The topic of wolves has sparked conflict between conservationists and conservatives, as well as urban liberals and rural residents. In some rural Austrian communities, wolves are met with hostility, reflecting a broader sentiment that also extends to immigrants.

Weymouth encounters a variety of perspectives, including those from hunters, anti-wolf advocates, and farmers who are frustrated not only by wolves but also by EU regulations that restrict their ability to safeguard livestock.

Weymouth sees Slavc as a symbol of hope in precarious times, but he also uncovers unsettling connections between wolves and far-right ideologies throughout history, dating back to Nazi Germany, where Hitler admired wolves and referred to the Hitler Youth as his “wolf cubs.” 

Even today, wolves attract attention, often associated with a mythological structure that designates a dominant alpha male within packs. This, however, stems from outdated research on captive wolves. Conversely, some claims about the beneficial effects of wolves on ecosystems, such as those proposed concerning Yellowstone National Park, are also scrutinized by Weymouth, who warns against idolizing wolves without recognizing their true nature.

Weymouth’s travel writing shines through in the vivid portraits he paints of the people he meets, including a cheerful Moroccan shepherd and a park ranger who feels at home in nature. His lyrical descriptions evoke emotions as he journeys through the Dolomites during a scorching summer.

Perhaps the emotional high point of the narrative is when Weymouth finally encounters a wolf. He describes a poignant moment with a captive wolf, highlighting its bright eyes and the lasting impression it leaves on him. A wild wolf sighting is saved for the conclusion, depicted with sensitivity and evoking a powerful culmination to this exploration.

The narrative doesn’t stop there, as a postscript introduces an unusual circumstance: In 2022, a wolf killed a pony owned by Ursula von der Leyen, the president of the European Commission. This incident prompted investigations and ultimately led to changes in the legal status of wolves in Europe by 2024, allowing for their hunting once more.

Weymouth’s writing has evolved since his captivating debut, *Kings of the Yukon*. His latest work reflects a deeper complexity and matured perspective, raising the anticipation for his future literary endeavors.

*Lone Wolf: Walking the Faultlines of Europe* by Adam Weymouth (Hutchinson Heinemann, 18.99, 384 pages)